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Tuesday, January 15, 2008

Forks and Honey

8:54 AM - Honey Creek Loop, Big South Fork River, TN

I first decided to visit this trail because of its mention in Hiking Tennessee by Kelley Roark, and it is definitely a new favorite of mine. The loop is 5.6 miles long, but it is bisected by a road, with parking lots at the top and the bottom of the loop. We started at the top of the loop, which is located at an overlook of the Big South Fork River. From there we left towards the Indian Rock House loop. First we descended 3 steep steel ladders, taking us much closer to the river. Technically, this is part of the inner loop, so we had to turn left to take the main trail a little beyond this point, just before a small cascade falling over the cliff face. The trail then turns almost immediately away from the river, to follow Honey Creek.

The creek ranges from 5-10 feet wide, and cascades over, under, and through the boulders which lay in its path. The water is blue-green, but is clear where the water is less than a foot deep. The path closely follows the creek, occasionally crossing it, and once, forcing us to walk up it, thought a narrow gorge. The path, like the creek, also goes over and under the boulders, several times leading us through small tunnels, where even I had to stoop a little.

The Indian Rock houses were caves in the face of the cliff by the creek. The first one we came to was the most fantastic. The entrance to this one was not level with the ground. First you have to climb a wooden ladder up about 10ft, into the opening. It is very large inside, and has a more sheltered area where the cave winds back to the right. There were about 3 more rock houses that the trail takes you to after that, all of them level with the ground, some larger, but none of which are quite as interesting as the first. The trail then winds up onto the ridge top, then finally cuts back to the creek and down. Along this segment there are 3 notable waterfalls.

Honey Creek Falls requires the hiker to take a very short spur trail, which is entirely worth it. The water falls about 15ft, into a deep blue green pool, with cliff walls surrounding it in a semicircle.

Boulder House Falls consists of 2 huge boulders (about 15, maybe 20ft) making an upside down V. at the back of the V, the water cascades about 5 feet to the "floor" of the house, which is a flat, solid rock, and spreads out to be only an inch or so deep inside the house.

Ice Castle Falls is the tallest of the three. It is a narrow stream of water falling over the cliff ledge.

After this, the trail begins its ascent to the parking lot at the lower end of the loop, and winds its way through what used to be a pine forest. The Pine trees are now all dead where they stand, because of this, and especially because many of them are quite tall, walking this portion on a windy day could be dangerous, as the trees could fall at any time, and indeed, we were continually crawling over and under trees that had fallen across the trail. The upshot to this was that we did see a Pileated Woodpecker which is about the size of a crow with a distinctive red comb on its head. I had never seen one of these before, so that was exciting for me. Finally we reached the bottom parking lot, and used the connecting road to get back to our car, rather than complete the loop, because it was starting to get dark, since we had started fairly late.

Some other bonus features: The lower part of the trail around the creek is otherworldly, surrounded by rhododendrons, mossy rocks, and ferns; The rock is sandstone, not the limestone which is so typical in TN, providing some unexpected color; the water is very cold, causing much of the trail to feel air-conditioned... very nice. A+

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