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Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Eh Boo Boo?

After leaving Pictograph Cave, we finally arrived at the North Entrance to Yellowstone, located at the edge of a small town called Gardiner.A large stone gate guards the entrance. Once inside the park, we drove to the first major stop, Mammoth Springs. As we turned into the area, we noticed a nice green median between the lanes with two lifelike statues of elk, except they weren't statues at all, they were just very, very still real elk. Immediately to the right was the rest of the small herd. resting on the green grass in the shade of some trees, and in the company of picnic tables. There was a male with a rack larger than I've seen on elk elsewhere, and a calf ambling about.

Beyond the elk stood Mammoth Springs. It is essentially a large mass of calcite deposits from the water which seeps continually over them. It creates complex patterns of travertine ridges holding shallow pools of steaming water. There are no real geysers in this area, just this massive rock created by the spring. We explored the face of the springs by a short trail, then returned to the car for a drive around a loop to explore the upper terraces area. Having become thoroughly familiar with a landscape that is echoed throughout the park, of dead standing trees, yellow and pure white stone, and steaming water, we continued south into the park.

As we continued south we passed several lesser geological features, including the Roaring Mountain, a belching and gurgling hole in a hillside, our fist acquaintance with a fumarole. Swinging right towards Madison, we came to the Artist's Paint Pots. Paint pots are my favorite thing about active areas like Yellowstone. Acidic vats of liquid rock that plop and gurgle, I could watch them for hours, but we didn't have that kind of time. Back in the car we headed to the Fountain Paint pot Trail. It also features a fumarole that opened during a not too long ago earthquake, and several geysers. The land is alive here. All along the roads are small geysers, hot springs, and fumaroles. The smell isn't pleasant, but it's not as bad as you might think.

After the paint pots, we took the Fire hole Lake drive, and stopped to view Fire hole Falls. As we passed Great Fountain Geyser, one of the somewhat predictable, and large geysers, we saw that it might erupt soon, so we decided to stop and wait for it. This geyser erupts only twice a day (on average) and we were lucky to only have to wait 20 minutes for it. Old Faithful is by far NOT the largest geyser in the park, and this one far outstrips it. It sends up huge amounts of water, spreads massive clouds of sulfur smelling steam into the crowd. It died down somewhat after about 20 minutes, and we took that as our cue to move on. It was late afternoon at this point, but we still had a lot on our plate.

Our next stop was the Midway Geyser Basin. This consists primarily of two large features. The first is Excelsior Geyser. Though now it is mostly a hot spring, there was a time when it erupted hugely. It is the size of maybe a fishing pond, and is a rocky Mediterranean coastline in miniature. The edges are steep, dark and craggy, the water a perfect blue. The other feature is the more famous Grand Prismatic Spring, the perfect example of a hot spring, clear blue at the center, surrounded by rings of vivid color, ending with a broad red outer ring. The colors define regions where different bacteria thrive in the range of water temperatures, and lend their color to the rocks.

As we were heading back to the car, from the Grand Prismatic Spring, we approached the wooden bridge that crosses the trout filled stream between the springs and the parking lot. As we neared the bridge we noticed, a bird of prey flying towards the stream. It's distinctive black and white markings gave it away as an Osprey, the first we had ever seen. Suddenly the bird bent his wings, and was momentarily motionless over the water, almost beyond believability. Then, the spell was broken and he dived down to the stream, shearing the top of the water with his talons, but he came up empty handed. He then circled a little farther down stream, and repeated the show, this time disappearing behind the trees as he dropped. When he rose, he gripped a trout, its head in one claw, it's tail in the other, the body of the fish making a bright shining U in the afternoon sun. I was hoping he would land nearby to eat, but he instead flew far away, out of sight over a nearby hill.

At this point, we were loosing light fast, but we still wanted to see one more thing: Mystic Falls, off the Upper Geyser Basin Loop. This loop has several smaller geysers, though we didn't have the time to pause and look at them, as we headed towards the back of the loop, and the spur that led to the falls. The area was beautiful. a stream to our left, and across the stream, an area of high canopy forest, with grassy undergrowth, then a steep wall. to our right was another steep rise, forming a narrow valley. We were at this point power hiking. I was totally out of breath due to the altitude, but we pushed on, anxious to get to the falls, and back out before dark, in this, prime grizzly country. Fortunately, the trail was not too long, perhaps a mile, or less, and we finally reached the falls. a broad rush of water dropping probably 30 or 40 feet, from one level of the valley floor to another. We went only far enough to overlook the falls, then headed quickly back to the car. Finally, done with our activities for the day, we were ready to head for the Old Faithful Inn

Tuesday, September 01, 2009

Pictograph Cave

After spending the night comfortably in our car, north of Billings, Montana, we woke up with the sun and headed south into town. We stopped to get gas and breakfast at a little gas station. We then headed to the entrance of Pictograph Cave, but found we were a few minutes early, so we sat and waited for the ranger to arrive and open the gate. Meanwhile, coyotes could be heard yipping in the distance. Finally the ranger arrived, and we drove up to the parking lot. After the ranger settle himself in his trailer, he came out to take our entry fee and talk to us. I think he was a little curious why we would be there so early in the morning. When we mentioned we'd be heading to Yellowstone in the afternoon, he seemed skeptical that such a thing was possible.

The park is small, having just a simple loop trail, that leads up and past 3 shallow caves in the face of a cliff. There is a little guide book that describes what you see at various markers, as you make your way around. At this early hour, there was a herd of bunnies in the one flat area adorned with picnic tables. They were everywhere. You have never seen so many bunnies in your life. Despite the surrounding grasslands, this sloping area is still mostly scrub. There were also a lot of birds nearby, including cliff swallows, in their little mud homes, and circling hawks. The primary attraction here is the pictographs left on the wall by the former residents of the cave. After taking a leisurely walk in the early morning light, and just as other visitors were starting to arrive, we headed off for Yellowstone.