Johnsonville State Park

A while back I bought a book by Kelley Roark called Hiking Tennessee. This book has led us to many nice hiking and walking trails, including those at Johnsonville State Historic Park. This park is located about 50 miles west of Nashville on the edge of Kentucky Lake a damned portion of the Tennessee River. We visited during the time that colder parts might call late winter, but I think of as early spring. The buds on trees were just beginning to appear, and the spring flowers were just beginning to push green tips up out of the ground.

Because the book was published over 10 years ago, some of the information is not up to date. The directions on how to get to the park were wonderfully accurate, but they were only from Memphis, and we were coming from Nashville, so this was a bit of a nuisance. The main problem was that the trail map wasn't quite right with regards to the trail head locations.

We parked next to what is called the museum by the park, but the visitor's center by the book, and checked out the civil war era cemetery which is on the map in the book. The cemetery is surrounded by the inner redoubt. The trail we were there to follow in the book is listed as the Johnsonville redoubt trail, known in the park as "trail" on all the signs. If you are wondering what a redoubt is, it is a reinforcing earthwork or breastwork within a permanent rampart according to dictionary.com.

Now, the museum and trail head are on the top of a small but steep wooded hill, by the edge of the lake. According to the book, the trail led around the cemetery, and down the hill, but there was no trail there as far as we could discern. Instead, the was a trail marked simply that, well to the left of the cemetery, and another one labeled "Nature Trail" further still to the left. We decided that "trail" was the right one, and started off. In retrospect, I think that we should have chosen the nature trail. The trail system is a large loop, and the descriptions in the book are in the reverse order if you leave from trail. We wound up returning from a different area completely, and crossing the road and the parking lot to return to our car, so I do not know where "nature trail" goes.

We hiked down off the hill, to an old service road, and from there cut through some brush to reach the rocky beach. At this spot there is a large amount of plastic garbage, broken glass, and shotgun shells. Not exactly what I think of when I think of a park. The explanation for the majority of this material (especially the shotgun shells) is also there on the beach. It is a duck blind, covered over by dry grass and camouflage netting. Inside are a few camp chairs, a small camp stove, and a frying pan, along with dozens of empty soda cans (no alcohol in state parks you know) and some more shotgun shells. While this wasn't the tranquil park experience I was used to, it was still definitely interesting. We walked back up to the service road, and followed it out to what used to be the rail tracks, as it crossed what is now the lake. This long corridor stretches out into the lake, and out at the very end of it is the serene state park feeling. There is no trash there, just the water breaking over the rocks, and some seagulls. From there we followed the old service road back the way we came, to the other end of it.

At this end is a muddy little inlet, which was fantastic, because there were animal footprints everywhere. Several deer, possum, raccoon, heron, and either wild dog or coyote had been there. It may have been a domestic dog, but if so, it was there without its owner; ours were the only human prints. From there, it was back to the trail, and up a very steep hill. From the top we could see a good view of the lake through the trees, which would be blocked later in the year. Then we continued along a ridge for a while, back down a steep incline, into a nice little valley. We saw two red tailed hawks circling overhead, and heard them calling back and forth to each other. Then we saw some squirrels. Eventually we found ourselves headed back towards the railroad end of the service road. We passed through an area where the ground was littered with bits of coal, from what I assume were old shipments on the railroad. Along the banks were the outer redoubts. And beyond them, was a flock of ducks, floating on the lake. Then it was just a short hike back up to the hill to our car.

I really enjoyed this park, because it is nice and quite. Though the trails are not long or difficult, and the parking is ample, there were few people about. There were some kids playing basketball in the parking lot, and a couple fishing on the lake, but there was no one else around. Aside from the trash on the beach, and the fact the museum is closed until next month, the park seems well maintained. All the "trail" signs were new, bright blue with yellow letters. It's close to Nashville, and would be a good destination for a day trip for anyone there. It's also a historic crossroads, as shown by the civil war cemetery, earthworks, and old railroad passageway. There is something even more interesting under the water: Old Johnsonville, which was flooded over when the damn that created Kentucky Lake was built. B+

Radnor Lake, the secret of the city

According to their website, Radnor Lake is the "largest pocket of wilderness in the U.S. in close proximity to a major city". The real irony is, you would drive right by it, and never know it was there. The secret is to look for Otter Creek Road, as no sign boasts the park's location.

With over 5 miles of trails meandering around a sprawling, smallish lake, nestled against the southern side of the city, Radnor Lake is an urban retreat like no other.

Once we found our way to one of the two parking lots, and managed to find a spot to park, I had some serious misgivings about the number of people. Encouraged by an optimistic husband, I was convinced however, to give the place a chance, so we started our walk from the visitor's center along the spillway trail, following the bone dry Otter Creek. We were rewarded almost immediately by the sighting of several deer. Down by the stream bed was a doe feeding. Then, after some crashing about a mature buck, with a full sized, velvetless rack arrive on the scene, startling the doe. When she took flight, he was quick to follow her, into the forest, out of sight. Not far ahead on the left of the trail, a younger male was feeding. From here the trail wound gently round the lake, becoming the Lake Trail. Along the way, we saw a Carolina Wren, a Carolina Chickadee, and a very large Great Blue Heron, casually preening on the lake's edge.

When we reached the juncture with the Ganier Ridge Trail, we left the lake to follow it. This trail winds along through the tall trees, then twists abruptly up the face of the ridge, marking the only difficult part of the trail. On the top, the trees are short stubby things, obviously suffering from the long dry summer. We followed along the level top of the ridge, past a young fellow playing the acoustic guitar, finally winding down the far side, and connecting to the access trail which leads to the second parking lot.

We then followed the road for a ways, taking note of the ducks on the water, and the obligatory Canadian geese. There were mallards swimming alone in a group of 15 or so, in a small pond or overflow area, on the opposite side of the road from the lake. On the lake itself were 3 ducks we were able to identify with our binoculars as 2 female and 1 male Scaup. This marks the first time we've seen these, though it was at a good distance. There were quite few other ducks further onto the lake, but our binoculars could not show us enough to figure out what type they were. A kingfisher was also present, mostly telling on himself with his unique voice, but finally showing himself when he took off across the lake.

We then left the road to follow the South Lake Trail among the trees, staying quite close to the road. Along the way we were accosted by a tufted titmouse. Finally we returned to the car after what turned out to be an enjoyable walk.

Overall, the trails at Radnor lake are flat and easy, and largely well cushioned by thick layers of wood mulch. There are quite a few people, but most stay well spaced out, and many seem to visit only to walk the road portion between the two parking lots. Fall is an especially nice time to visit, not only for the aforementioned wild life, but also for the beautiful fall foliage.

Ostia Antica

The ancient city of Ostia Antica is something of a secret in Italy, being overshadowed by the city of Pompeii. But this city is not less impressive, or expansive, and it is less crowded.

It is not a difficult place to find, and is only a few minutes from Rome's Fiumicino Airport, making it an ideal first stop when visiting the country. The entrance leads down a wide lane, riddled with grooves from ancient wagon wheels. The first area is is the roman necropolis, the region of crypts customarily placed a distance from town. Beyond the this area is an open market area, with buildings, which were, if I understand the translations from the information I got online, warehouses. This area has many interesting geometric mosaics on the floors.

Beyond this area we came to the large bath complex on the right side of the road. It is possible to go down some of the side streets, and catch glimpses of the closed off interior. Returning to the main road, we climbed some steep steps to the top of one building, to over look the large mosaic floor of on area of the baths.

Behind the baths is the barracks for the soldiers, who were also the city's firemen. It consists of a courtyard, with many smaller rooms opening onto it, and there is only one way in or out. From here we took a detour behind the ruins to the tree lined modern road to the snack area, so we could take a quick pit stop. We returned back to the ruins, heading towards the amphitheatre. In front of this structure, there is a small temple, and before the temple is the ancient market.

The market area is essentially a rectangular shaped open air shopping mall. Each small store had a mosaic on its floor, and often a mosaic on the sidewalk in front, naming the business and
advertising their wares. It is a unique and interesting feature of Ostia Antica. Not all of the mosaics today represent their historical pattern, as they were restored in a time when archaeology wasn't quite as exacting as it is today, which is to say, they made up some pictures using the ancient mosaic stones.

The Amphitheater is beautiful and well preserved. At the time of our visit, the area of the original stage had been covered and outfitted for a modern performance. The seating area is fully accessible, and we climbed up to the very top, where the ancient nobility would have sat.

The amphitheater is a semi circle, with the main entrance a single large archway through the middle. There are 2 additional entrances in the form of stairways with climb the back, or outside, of the amphitheater on either side of the main entrance.

There is a good deal more to this city, but as this was our first day, we were just too tired to continue. But from what I saw, I know that I will return next time I visit Rome, to finish exploring the incredible place. This is an A+

Magnolia Manor

The Magnolia Manor in Bolivar, Tennessee was built in 1849, and according to their website:

"It was used as a Headquarters for the Union Army by Generals Logan, McPherson, Sherman and Grant during the Civil war and it is believed to be the home in which these four Generals planed the battle of Shiloh."

We stayed in the C. A. Miller Master Suite, an absolutely beautiful room. The hostesses were kind, and the eggs Benedict breakfast was fantastic. However, it seems that rates have increased a bit since our stay, as I recall paying about $100 and the site now posts a $135 price. It might however be worth the price, especially for those interested in Civil War History.