Santa Maria Capua Vetere: Il Coliseo's little brother

Little could be found on the vast internet about this site, but between what photographs and descriptions I could find, I knew it was somewhere I wanted to visit. To begin with, it is the second largest amphitheater the Romans built, second only to the Colosseum. This structure is in considerable more disrepair, and overgrown with trees, vines, and weeds. But, what truly sets this structure apart are the  accessible lower reaches. You can go down into the underbelly of the structure, unaccompanied, and explore the passageways beneath what was once the arena floor. Provided you exercised the proper caution when you took the stairs


It was difficult to find an exact address, but Google's satellite images showed us the way, and likely parking in front. We reached the amphitheater without difficulty, and purchased tickets, asking also about the mithraeum that we understood to be part of the admission. Later, we were told. Visit the amphitheater first.

We descended down the hillside to the looming structure, and were met, and accompanied by two amicable stray dogs. They followed us into the amphitheater, around the few portions above ground that can be reached, then down the stairs beneath. The stairs that lead down are near to where one enters into the amphitheater. There was some construction going on here, which blocked our view, but we did eventually find the way down.

Beneath was like a movie set. Ancient columns of stone reached up from the stone floor and arched overhead. Green branches and vines hung down from above. In the dirt that had collected in ditches and corners grew thick brambles. A deep channel was carved into the stone, that led from the longest end to end, and out both sides, through dark passageways, that were gated off. Where these used to fill the structure with water for boat shows in the arena? Other, shallower channels led through the other halls, that curve around the exterior walls, and were lined with stalls for people and animals. Piles of carved stone lay here and there. Mysterious stairways, blocked by gates, curved up into the superstructure.

The dogs padded contentedly alongside us. When we ventured back the passageway leading out from the farther end of the amphitheatre, all the way to the gate, one of the dogs slipped under the bars and continued on, looking back, encouraging us to follow. But, though it would have been easy to pass through, we held back, never wanting to get into trouble in a country where we did not speak the language. Though it was not the sort of place you would ever want to leave, cool and dark and mystical, there came a point when we had seen all there was to see, and so we returned to the stairs up, this time accompanied by only 1 dog, as the other had never come back to us from the tunnel.

From there, we took a left, and wandered over to a small "museum" there. Just withing the entrance were life size wax sculptures of gladiators, fighting each other, and a rather questionable lion. At the push of a button, we were treated to a narrative in Italian, highlighting the various figures with colored lights, and punctuated with the sound effects of clashing metal and roaring crowds. Here there was also a model, showing the arena, half as it is today, half as it once was. In a side room was a collection of decorative pieces take from the site.

Returning to the ticket counter, we enquired about the Mithraeum. It was gesticulated that we were to follow a fellow in his car. He led us quickly into the heart of the little town, down a few winding narrow alleys, then parked and got out. We followed him to a wooden door which he unlocked, then down a dark and dank stairwell to the ancient place of worship.

From my understanding, Mithraism was a secretive, cultish religion. They venerated Mithras, a mystical bull slayer. This particular mithraeum was discovered quite by accident when some construction workers accidentally dug into it. While the constructed entrance is at the back of the temple, the point of discovery can still be seen as a roughly patched area on the right when facing the large mural of a man slaying a bull. While our guide did not speak English we did have a brief conversation of gestures and glances about how very old, sacred, and untouched this place was.

Finally, he led us to the surface, and returned to his car, leaving us to find our way to our next destination.