Trevi and Trajan

The next day we got up very early, well before any self respecting Italian would think of setting his alarm, and headed down to visit the iconic Trevi Fountain. In Rome in September, in the hours after dawn, the air is pleasant and fresh, but still, neither very cool or warm. The city smells of the cobbled streets, and the only sounds are the cooing of doves, and the occasional car. The fountain lies about a mile north of the ancient and heavily trafficked sites of the Colosseum and the Roman Forum, but the fountains manage to attract their fair share of the tourists anyway, despite being a relatively modern attraction. In a city whose history is best measured by millennia, the fountain was completed in 1762, less than 250 years ago.

The fountain draws the tourists for a few reasons, not least of which is that it is rather impressive. The large pool, and the sort of stone waterfall, ensconced with figures of Neptune, his horses and accompanying riders. All of this before a grand white roman styled palace. But there is also the various movies that have feature the fountain, perhaps most famously, La Dolce Vita. And on top of all that, there's the idea that throwing a coin in the fountain guarantees your return to the city, and who would want to miss out on that? But this early in the morning, there was no one else around. It was quiet and calm, and there was no one there but us to see us toss our coins in

From the fountain of Trevi, we traveled on to Trajan's Market. The site had just opened up for the day, and we were the first to get out and explore the streets and buildings of this former downtown Rome. The buildings are bare walled and empty floored. Unlike Pompeii, there are no relics to indicate whether this might have been a bakery, that a shop, here a tavern. But, there are discoveries to be made. This stairwell leads from a set of shops on a round plaza, up and behind, to a second level street, also lined with buildings. Here, a stone cover conceals the drainage below the street. Over it all are remnants of residences. Prime real estate then, as it would be now.

Now with the day in full progress, we turned from the business of Rome to it's governance, as we made the short walk to the forum.

Firenze: Piazza della singoria and the Uffizi

Florence, known to Italians by the more spirited name Firenze, was the beating heart of the Italian Renaissance, and is today the home of countless museums and masterpieces. But the museums do bring the crowds that come to see them, particularly the top most two, the Uffizi, and the Galleria dell Academia. The Galleria is the home of David, the Uffizi houses works by not only da Vinci, Michelangelo, and Raphael, but also Titian, Caravaggio, Botticelli, and Rembrandt, amongst others. The key to seeing these works without a long wait is to arrive at the museums in the morning, to arrive before the museums open, before tour groups or many other tourists are up and about.

So we found ourselves on our first morning in a nearly vacant Piazza della Signoria, where the Uffizi is located. The Piazza itself is notable for it's collection of statues, as the site of the historical Bonfire of the Vanities, and the site of Palazzo Vecchio. Outside the Palazzo stands a replica of Michelangelo's David. Around the corner of the Palace is the Fountain of Neptune, Constructed in the 1500's, the crowning marble statue is not the original, housed in a museum. The rest of the fountain, in bronze and marble is mostly original, though it has been several times restored. But most of the statues are housed under the Loggia della Signoria. Here several dynamic sculptures, stood in the cool blue shadows of early morning. Among the statures are a bronze Perseus by Cellini, a piece by Giambologna called Hercules beating the Centaur, as well as the Rape of Polyxena, and several Roman sculptures. However, by far my favorite piece is the twisted spire of bodies of the Rape of the Sabine Women also by Giambologna.

Realizing a bit of a line was forming at the soon to open museum, we cut our visit to the outdoor statues short. This gallery brims with at least a few paintings from each of many masters of the paintbrush. Many of the works can be viewed at the Virtual Uffizi. Easily the single most famous piece here, despite all the well known artists is that of the Birth of Venus, by Botticelli. The Nearly 50 rooms of work on display take 3 to 4 hours to browse over everything, or you can skim through the works by the more famous authors more quickly. Thankfully, because the museum lets people in in groups, the rooms are not as crowded as you might think, and the works are generally easy to see. Pictures are not allowed, but photographs of most of the works can be found at the above link.

Palazzo Vecchio

David Replica

Neptune Fountain

Bronze Satyr on Neptune Fountain sheilds his face from the sun

Perseus

Hercules beating the Centaur

Rape of Polyxena

Rape of the Sabine Women

The Uffizi Line

Bologna afternoon

We came to Bologna to see two things: a few of the towers the city is famous for, and the Basilica of San Domenico. We were caught up in the crowded and busy streets, and little more than glimpsed the towers of Torri Degli Asinelli e Garisenda. The haphazardly constructed city is given a coherent look thanks to the sandstone and terracotta tiles with which everything seems to be built. One of the most striking features of the city are it's colonnaded sidewalks which crowd the street and bring the cool darkness of evening to the early afternoon. They are so striking in fact, that these Porticoes of Bologna are on the tentative list for becoming a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Eventually we navigated the maze and located the Basilica. It is easy to pick out, among all the like colored buildings because in front of it stands a tall pillar, topped by a statue of St. Dominic, and beside it is yet another column, this bearing a statue of Madonna of the Rosary.

The church has a baroque interior, full of marble, plaster, and paintings from vatious artists. Perched here and there, are life size plaster angels.

The church is the final resting place of St. Dominic, who once served in the church which was expanded and renamed San Domenico after the Saint's death. At the front of the church lies the impressive marble shrine. The shrine has a tower of its own, and two of the statuettes that grace it were early pieces by Michelangelo. The church is also the burial site of Guido Reni, who painted St. Dominic's Glory above St. Dominic's shrine.

Tempio at Rimini, Mosaics at Ravenna

When we arrived in Rimini, we found parking easily, and headed down the street to where the Tempio Malatestiano was to be located. Our directions where somewhat unclear, and we were unaware at the time that the actual name of the church is St. Francis. when Faced with an austere white marble church, we were uncertain. Was this the church that so offended the Pope at the time of its construction? We were prepared for something darker. But the church can be easily identified by the intertwined I and S, for Sigismono Malatesta and his mistress Isotta. The characters together resemble a dollar sign, and it is perhaps these marks, as well as the unusual carved details of elephants, part of Malatesta's coat of arms, which so offended the religious order. Not so much a church, as a shrine to his dead mistress, the Tempio was never fully completed as intended. It is in itself not a particularly important attraction, but is and interesting stopover.

Roughly an hour north of Rimini lies the town of Ravenna. Ravenna is considered a UNESCO World Heritage site due to it's fabulous mosaics located in several buildings throughout the town. A ticket can be purchased the provides admittance to several of these buildings, and they can be visited easily by foot in the main part of town. Also in the area is the final resting place of Dante. Though Florence was long his home, He died and was buried in Ravenna, a political exile. Florence has since tried to recover his remains, but Ravenna has refused, and in the early 1800's, 500 years after his death, they constructed a tomb for him among other famous Italians, but which still lies empty today.

Inside and Outside: Tomba Di Dante.

From the Tempio Malatestiano

Various Mosaics from Ravenna

Il Colosseo

Not far from Circus Maximus is the Roman Coliseum, or Il Colosseo. Originally the name of a large statue that once stood in front, it now applies to the iconic largest of all Roman Amphitheatres. Designed much as modern sports arenas, the amphitheater had a wide outer wall, now mostly gone, which encircled inner hallways and stairways, which led to various levels of seating, all the way up to the long gone wooden nose bleed section.

What remains today, while still impressive in its own right, is but a ruinous shadow of the former structure. The marble, which once encased the structure was removed over the nearly 1500 years since it went into disuse. Earthquakes have reduced its height, and its outer wall.

The remaining structure is mostly the brick core. While the hypogeum below the Colosseum is not accessible, the upper levels can be explored. The original seating has been heavily eroded, and many areas are capped with concrete to prevent further damage. The white marble of the senators seating is still clearly visible among the red brick. They seemed to be reconstructing the arena floor during our visit, or possibly constructing a temporary stage.

This arena once saw not only gladiatorial fights, but plays, mock battles, and animal hunts. Like any public entertainment venue today, there were vendor stalls and public restrooms. It even had a retractable awning to protect the crowds from rain and bright sun.

Visible from the Colosseum's windows is the Arch of Constantine.

In conjunction with our visit was an exhibit of Eros and Venus related sculpture and artwork. Amongst the work were several Grecian style black and tan urns that depicted explicit acts, which were surprising and interesting to see. But the statues were the really beautiful things, the others were just odd and interesting.

The Big Easy

My first visit to New Orleans was In late 2007 I believe. The weather was hot and humid as we wandered the area Near the aquarium. We wandered along and into some of the shops on the edge of the French Quarter, and down to Jackson Square, a lovely city park fenced in wrought iron, with a statue of Andrew Jackson as its centerpiece. On the sidewalks just outside the park, street artists sold their wares.

In front of the park is St. Louis Cathedral. This white faced church resembles a fairy tale castle. We poked our heads inside for a quick look, then headed back out onto the street. Between the church and Jackson Square was a wide cobbled way, filled with a few park benches. On one end were fortune tellers, on the other, a silver man, frozen in mid strum, playing his guitar.

The French Quarter is a mouse maze of businesses, with items for sale ranging from hot sauce to Mardi Gras masques and beads, to fine art. Sprinkled throughout are restaurants and bars, offering a true variety of options, from the expected Cajun faire and hurricanes, to the somewhat more surprising Italian, Chinese, and Indian.

Everywhere throughout the area, stands of beads from Mardi Gras past can be seen handing, off balconies, streetlamps, trees, and power lines.

Of course, with any visit to New Orleans, Bourbon Street is the real must see, but it's certainly not for children. Aside from bawdy window displays and the open doored strip clubs, some of the visitors themselves are sure to raise eyebrows. At night this street takes on a real party atmosphere, and gathers quite a crowd. Whatever you may have heard about New Orleans safety, I felt much more comfortable around the streets of French Quarter at night, even the more empty side streets, than San Francisco or Seattle in the early evening.

Of course the famed debauchery of New Orleans, and Bourbon Street in particular, attracts those who would save the heathen masses, or perhaps just insult them. Bearing signs that condemn such sins as being a liberal, feminist, or sports fanatic, they become merely part of the spectacle.

We did spend a fair amount of time in the downtown area, but we did take enough of a break to enjoy a trolley ride past the old houses and Loyola along St. Charles Avenue, and then enjoyed a walk up St Carrollton Ave to the Gelato Pazzo Caffe. It's well worth the little side trip. We also took a little time to wander one of the cemetaries around the city, which has it's own beauty.

While throughout town, the remnants of Katrina still remain, mostly in the form of high water marks and abandoned buildings, the city is very much alive, and very much worth a visit.

Kooza Atlanta

Over Valentines weekend of 09, we headed down to Atlanta to see Kooza under the big top. Ever since I saw my first Cirque Du Soleil production on public television when I was younger, I've wanted to go actually see a show, so I was very excited to find that they were relatively near by.

This is one show where it is definitely worth it to arrive early. Before the show starts, there are actors in the aisles, in the seats, on the stage. So many clowns to entertain that it hardly feels like you are waiting for the show to start at all.

When the show finally does start, it remains a frequently funny, always interesting and some times artistically sweet production throughout. The entire show as a whole is rapid fire perfectly done entertainment. Some of the best acts are the incredibly quick juggler, and surprisingly fast contortionists. Equally impressive were the balancing chair and unicycle acts. Perhaps my favorite was a chance to watch a truly gifted pickpocket at work, on of all things an airline pilot.

The various characters, from the king and his clowns to the Innocent and his dog, provide the theatrical touch that makes a cirque production so much more than just a circus. Currently playing in New York, with additional dates across the US this year, this is a show not to be missed.

Williamsburg First Night

We were looking for something fun to do to welcome in 2009. We had an extra long weekend, and initially thought of going somewhere warm. Instead, we wound up heading north to Eastern Virginia and Williams burg. As a child, I lived for a year near Roanoke, and had the opportunity to visit as a school trip, by my parents were unwilling to shell out the cash. I have been brooding ever since.

All was made well when we arrived on New Year's Eve. Through the magic of the Internet I had discovered Williams burg's First Night celebration. This comprised of a large array of activities taking place in various buildings on the campus of William and Mary, as well as Eastward into Williams burg. We had a schedule of what we wanted to do in hand, and set off, walking all over
the place to see what we could. Our very first stop was Bagels and Fraylox, a very good klezmer band. Klezmer is wonderful mostly upbeat Jewish music. I fell in love and bought a CD. We then went to the Matthew Whaley School, where we watched a juggling act, before heading over to the Williamsburg Library Auditorium to watch Suwabi African Dance. I love African dance because it is so energetically different from modern dance. Somewhere in there was also stopped by briefly to see Schnicklefritz and the Oompahs, where I learned I don't like that type of German music. Unfortunately, I still have the chicken dance stuck in my head, which they had also decided to play.
Here we paused for some food, pizza from some small corner shop I do not remember the name off. It was neat because it had dollar bills lacquered into the floor here and there, but the food was mediocre and left me hungry.

We continued out musical exploration by visiting the phenomenal Bobby Black Hat Blues Band, playing in the Kimball Theatre. I have never seen a man run about and be so energetic while playing the harmonica. And he did get down off the stage and run around the aisles. Accompanied by some swing dance students on stage, it was a high energy show and a lot of fun. From there we went on to see the far more subdued Rebbecca Davy, who performed on the Williamsburg Presbyterian Church's organ. Which was quit and interesting show. To top off our evening, before the Grand Finale, we headed over to see Williamsburg's Classic Swing Orchestra play, and to watch the dancers dance. I love watching people swing dance. I am especially fond of watching the older people do it, because they know just what they are doing, and can lead and improvise so well, even if they don't have the energy of their younger counterparts.

Finally, we headed to the Zable Stadium for the Grand Finale. It was very very cold, and after trying to stick it out, we left before midnight, but had a change of heart and returned in time to ring in the new year and watch the fireworks show.

It was a wonderful evening. What I find most amazing is that we didn't see half of the shows available. This is a great way to explore all the varieties of music of the world, and ring in the New Year in a family friendly way. I highly recommend it.

Charleston: a weekender's paradise

Charleston, like Savannah, is a charming southern coastal city. The historic downtown is picture perfect, with charming homes faced, not toward the roads, but rather towards their very own private side gardens. The porches, which face onto the gardens, are often blocked from view by a door and the end facing the street. Indeed, the most of the landscaping is hidden behind fences and gates. Beyond the cobbled streets lies the bay and the battery park. The seaward side of the battery is lined with cannon and palm trees. Behind these are well spaced live oaks, centered around gazebo like band stand. When we visited early one morning in April, the live oaks were saturated with robins. They fed on the berries of the palms and swarmed among the trees.

Away from the coast is the market building, long and low, it's purpose fairly obvious, even when it is closed. The most popular item for purchase here is the sweetgrass basket, or the cheaper palm leaf flowers. Beyond that, the flea market carries a wide variety of items from local made candies to cheap sunglasses. There are many shops in the area, which lean towards the artsy and eclectic.

Of the shore lies historic fort Sumter. This fort is where the first shots of the civil war were fired by the confederacy who overtook the fort from the North. Today, a ferry leaves from patriots point and escorted by seagulls takes you to the fort. .The ride provides good views of the Ravenel bridge and the Charleston bay Once within the fort's walls, you have the choice of personally exploring the fort, are following a guide as he points out interesting features, and answers questions. .One of the interesting features are the mortar shells wedged here and there in the walls of the fort. Why are they on the inside of the fort? They were fired from over the opposite wall, and dropped within the fort just in

time to blast into the base of the exterior wall from the inside Within the walls of the fort is a war memorial, flying flags of the state and the nation. Also within the walls is a later built artillery housing, painted a severe black. The interior has a small museum, and an original flag.

Patriots Point harbors, in addition to the tours of fort Sumter which leave from there, a world war II air craft carrier, submarine, and battleship, as well as housing a coast guard vessel, and a reconstructed Vietnam camp. The aircraft carrier, while still much smaller than the ones used today, was large. the ship makes good use of all its space though, with unique designs for everything from stairwells to sleeping areas. One of the most puzzling features of the ship were the many broken clam shells scattered across the deck. That was until 'splat' out of the sky dropped a fresh live clam, its shell breaking open to reveal the fleshy insides. The seagull responsible circled patiently, waiting for the tourist to clear the was so it could enjoy its meal. The submarine made even better use of the space, with Jake barely fitting through the small doorways that led from one area to the next.