Yellowstone: worth staying inn

After our long day of hiking, we were very glad to arrive at the Old Faithful Inn. Originally constructed in 1904, with wings later added in 1915 and 1927, the Old Faithful in is an enormous log cabin, with a touch of early 20Th century charm. Starving, we hurriedly checked in, put our things in our small room, and, having hardly looked around us, we headed straight for some food as we hadn't eaten anything since our meager breakfast outside pictograph cave early that morning.

Foregoing the hotel restaurant in favor of quicker eats, we headed to the cafeteria. Here, we were disappointed by the quality of the food, the cost, and the service, but food is food, and we were starved (how do you mess up chili cheese fries and a burger?) Full, we headed back to the hotel.

The hotel is nothing short of incredible. Old Faithful Inn, made of log, was built in a time when National Parks were still new, and enjoyed immensely by the wealthy elite, and it shows. The 65 ft ceiling of the lobby is beautiful and impressive, nothing but gleaming natural wood. High at the top lies a small booth for the band that once entertained, though it is no longer safe, due to earthquakes in the area, Yellowstone is the caldera of a massive volcano after all. There is a massive fireplace in the center, and everything is lit with glowing yellow lamp light. Our room was small, and, as the cheapest one available, was equipped only with a sink. Well, there was also a bear in our room... He was made of soap, and lives in my bathroom now. There was a bathroom with chrome, and black and white checked tiles down the hall, and showers were located upstairs in a room done in brown tile and wood. Though we needed the shower, we decided to sit for a while on a bench, on a balcony facing over the lobby, and enjoy the piano being played on another level. I can't tell you what was played, but it made me feel like it was a century earlier.

Eventually we had to admit we were exhausted, and had an early day again tomorrow, so we donned the fluffy white robes provided in our rooms, and headed to the showers. Walking back to the room through the now empty halls, I couldn't help but feel I owned the place. I can't wait to go back. When I am semi retired, I'll be working over the summer here, perhaps, and spend long lazy evenings listening to piano by the light of the fire.

The Night on Etna

After leaving the ferry in Messina, we headed for our

hotel for the night on the side of Mt. Etna. The autostrasse was a series of tunnels and mountain hugging curves, until we exited and began the drive up the volcano itself. The hotel we were headed for was the Milomax, located in the small town of Milo. The hotel is a small two storey building the sits right on the edge of the road. We were more tired than hungry at this point, and after being led to our rooms headed almost straight to bed, after a brief bit of difficulty with the owner, who wanted to know if we wanted lunch the next day, and who we didn't understand until I finally had the sense to get out my dictionary.



In the morning we woke and loaded out things back into our tiny car, and realized that the roads were not black with wetness as I had assumed the night before, but with a layer or sooty ash which covered most surfaces, this being the remnant of Etna's most recent eruption beforehand. This being the 6Th of July 2007, and the

volcano having erupted as recently as May 7Th, and being a fairly active volcano in general.

After a simple breakfast of hot tea and cookie/biscuits spread with some sort of chocolate butter, we explored a bit around our hotel.
From the small plaza near out hotel, which was also covered with a layer of ash, we could see the smokey peak of the volcano, still some distance away. While it had initially been proposed to take a somewhat longer course and drive a way around the volcano, we ultimately decided that at this distance, there was not enough to be seen to merit taking the extra time. So Instead we turned south and headed towards the ruins and the museum in Syracusa

Glacier National Peace Park

We left for Glacier after our visit to Craters of the Moon. Somewhere south of Flathead Lake, the road narrowed to a two lane highway that was under construction. Despite the remote location, there was a long line of traffic, and progress was slow. It was at this point that I realized I had to go to the bathroom, which was made more urgent by the in-progress road, which had many sections of bumpy gravel. After trying to hold out for half an hour I spotted an office building complex in the night, and I was more than willing to go behind it to relieve myself. Unfortunately, there were some active lawn sprinklers to dodge, and in the wet grass I twisted my ankle, but it was worth it. Later on, we saw fire blazing up in the mountains, like rivulet of lava on the mountain's side. We finally arrived at the southern edge of Flathead Lake, where we stopped for the night.

We woke up early on the third day, and drove north along Flathead Lake, entering the park around 8:00 am at West Glacier. Here we turned our tires onto the Going to the Sun Road, the only road that runs through the park, and an engineering feat of its time. Our first stop was at the Avalanche Lake/Trail of Cedars trail. Half of the Trail of Cedars loop was closed, but we were able to access the Avalanche Lake trail at the back of the loop. Because we were up early, this trail wasn't too busy (it is one of the most popular trails in the park) and was pretty peaceful. The forest is cool and dark, and the sunlight coming through the trees made the whole place something out of a fairy tale. There were squirrels and chipmunks everywhere, and spider webs strung between the trees. The trail follows a perfectly clear stream to the lake. We were running a little bit behind due to my injured ankle, and we made a decision to stop short of actually reaching Avalanche Lake to make sure that we could stay on track for all the other trails we had planned to hike that day. After leaving that trail we headed to Logan Pass visitors center to hike the Hidden Lake Trail. When we arrived, the parking lot was very full, and it took us some time to find a parking spot, which required us to use all the people stalking skills we learned from tying to park on campus in college. Once we were parked, we took a little walk through the gift shop, and then headed out the back, taking a boardwalk up the hill.

The hill was steeper than it looked, but it was a beautiful, sound of music kind of place. There were little streams trickling down from the mountain, surround by beautiful, thick beds of flowers. As we reached the top of this rise, some evergreen trees came into view. We saw some ptarmigans nestled against some rocks, taking very good advantage of their summer brown feathers to blend in almost completely. Just a little ways further up we saw our first mountain goats, a mother with her baby. From that point on, along the trail we saw a few here and there resting in the shade. Finally, we reached the crest of the rise, and could see the Hidden Lake below. It was the most beautiful deep blue. The photographs we have do not even come close to doing it justice. While we were enthralled with the lake, squirrels were moving in. We caught them in the act of trying to chew into some one's backpack that they had foolishly left on the ground. While there is a trail leading down to the lake, it looked very long and steep, and we had miles to go… so we turned back for the car, and the next trail, but there was one more surprise for us. From around the bend ahead, and just a little higher up the mountain, came a small herd of big horn sheep. It was 3 females being herded by a male, who chased down one stray and forced her back with the group by giving her a love tap in the rear with his thick skull. They weren't interested in hanging around though, and were quickly out of sight. We passed back by the mother goat and her baby, the mother having left her baby far behind as she headed for the tree line, the baby followed, bleating plaintively. The trip down was a lot easier than the trip up.

We arrived back in the parking lot, which was filling up with the classic red convertible sedans which do driving tours along the famous Going to the Sun road. Greeting new arrivals was a big brown bear. Despite the crowd of people hugging him, and getting their photos taken with him, we were able to get a shot of the only bear we saw here.

After the hike to see hidden lake, we had a lineup of several waterfalls. The first trail took us to St. Mary Falls, actually passing a snake along the way. The falls are beautiful, having carved out its own bowl into the rock. Continuing beyond this is Virginia Falls. Along the way there we encountered a fat toad, right in the middle of the path, who lazily walked his way off into the mossy undergrowth. We reached the falls and found them to be very narrow and high. We then returned back along the trail, and once again the fat toad was in our path. He lazily walked himself out of the way again, and we were free to return to the car, excited as much to have seen 2 reptiles on this trail, which we saw no where else in the park, as we were to have seen the falls. From there it was just a skip to the parking lot for access to Baring falls and Sunrift Gorge. The stream flows through sunrift gorge, a deep and narrow passage way, then curves under the road and over the falls. The trail winds out and back, bringing us finally to the foot of the falls. We spent a significant amount of time resting, and watching an American dipper at the base of this rather small but picturesque fall. The dipper is a small, finch sized bird, which stands on rocks in the rushing stream, and dives into the water, hunting for food. While standing on the rocks, he continually does deep knee bends, bobbing up and down. He was a plain grey/brown color, but provided great entertainment.

After returning to the car, we were finally done hiking for the day, having covered over 9 miles. We then continued east along the going to the sun road, coming into St. Mary, where a forest fire had raged just weeks before. Vast stands of trees were reduced to nothing but blackened posts, but the grass was already spring up green among the wasteland. We stopped briefly to investigate a restaurant, but, though we hadn't eaten much but a few rolls and some nuts all day, we just weren't interested in their menu, or their prices. So we headed on to the tiny town of Babb. Babb consists of a hotel, general store, and cheap diner, all owned by the same people. It also has a dinner club steakhouse, which looked rather frightful: concrete and no windows. We had reservations at the hotel, so we checked in, then quickly decided to head a few miles north over the border to see what food could be had in Carway in Alberta. We had to stop in at the border station, and answer some questions about our intentions, and then we were free to drive on. Once in town, we discovered that there was nothing to eat, as every single restaurant was closed; it was Sunday. We returned dejectedly to Babb, and decided to risk the diner club, which we had been told had good steak, despite its frightening appearance.

Let this be a reminder to never judge a book by its cover. Just inside the entrance was an old fashioned bar, with lots of dark wood, and plush red upholstered swivel bar seats (with back and arm rest). Beyond the bar was a grand spiral staircase, all of wood, winding around the trunk of a tree. Seated at our table above, I couldn't help but admire the huge sculpture that hung out over the room below. It depicted a herd of buffalo being run off a cliff, and appeared to be made of stone. We ordered our somewhat expensive steaks, but were rewarded with some of the largest, and best cuts I've ever had. I had a NY strip that hung off the edges of my plate. The steaks were fantastic and so huge I could only eat half of mine, and I was starving.

Full and happy, we got our left overs to go, hoping for a microwave in the hotel room, which we had not actually been into yet. When we got to the hotel, we didn't find a microwave, but we were too tired to care, and fell into bed.

Gatlinburg: Old Timey Photo Capital of the World!

I have been to visit Gatlinburg and the Smokey
Mountains on several different occasions, but this year I decided to visit in the month of December, when the little tourist town is decked in its finest.

Along the way, we stopped at the Stonehaus Winery off I-40 partway between Nashville and Knoxville. After stopping by the gift shop and picking up some tasty mint chocolate fudge, we went to the tasting counter and sampled the wines. I am by no means a wine connoisseur. I really don't like most wine. Some of the selections at Stonehaus were rather good. After trying nearly everything they had, including some fantastic mulled wine, we settled on a bottle of tart blackberry wine.

We arrived in the early afternoon at the Gazebo Inn, where we had booked a room online, seeing that it was one of the cheapest rooms to be had within walking distance of all the glorious tackiness of the main street of town. At $56 a night for two, we found the room to be a good value. The exterior is very quaint, and the rooms, though somewhat small, are comfortable. The bathtub in our particular room looked a bit shabby, and the lighting in the bathroom was poor, but those are my only complaints.

After checking on the room, we headed off to walk about, in a light rain that had begun. The town is a browser's paradise, and is loaded to the brim with kitsch. 80% of the shops specialize in Christmas decorations, fudge, or taking a sepia colored Old Timey Photo of you in full cowboy/saloon girl wear. We shopped the stores, browsing with an ornament in mind. Finally, as dinner time approached we picked a place to eat. We

finally settled on the Smokey Mountain Brewery, set just off the main drag behind Calhoun's. We enjoyed our steaks a good deal. Though I am also not a beer drinker, I was intrigued by their beer sampler, which might be a fun treat for anyone who does enjoy different beers.

Once we had eaten, it was back out onto the now dark streets, and the innumerable Christmas lights, in search of the perfect ornament. We stopped at a candy shop to try a few different truffles, and a peanut butter filled, sea shell shaped chocolate. We visited an art store in the mall, where almost everything is locally produced, and we listened to the carolers, who were dressed in colonial style velvet outfits. We finally found what we were looking for at the Christmas Tree, a little store selling nothing but ornaments, tucked into a corner of the shopping area known as The Village. Mission accomplished, we returned to our hotel as the light rain continued to fall, and the temperatures dropped.

When we awoke in the morning, for what we intended to be a day of hiking, it was snowing, though it wasn't sticking. We left immediately to drive out New Found Gap Road, which crosses the mountains. As we headed up, the snow progressed to sticking to the leaves, to sticking to the trees and bark, until eventually we reached an area where the snow was covering the road. At this point we We finally settled on the Alamo, where we ate a solid meal, and deciding to splurge a bit, we decided to get some dessert. We had an ice cream filled tortilla, which was fried, and served with cool whip and cinnamon. While it was good, it wasn't worth the price, and I don't

think I would order it again. We drove around a bit, and stopped in a few out of the way shops, before finally deciding that it was time to make the long drive home.
were forced to stop by a line of cars, and turning around, we came back down through the blowing snow. Turning left at the visitor's center, we headed down Little River Road to take a drive around Cade's Cove. Despite the cold and the snow, there were many deer out and about grazing. Finally getting out fill of the white wonderland, we headed back into town for something to eat.

Opryland Hotel, Nashville

If you live in the area or you are going to be in the area for some time, you should definitely check out the Opryland Hotel. It is particularly nice in the winter, because you can walk around "outside" without a coat. The Hotel is a small city unto itself. The interior has multiple courtyards with a sky high roof of glass scaffolding above. These are not your normal courtyards. Each one is a jungle, with winding paths leading behind waterfalls and over them, around fountains and gazebos, and beside small streams. Wider lanes lead along the river, and through the small New Orleans styled street. You can board a boat on a track, and take a little tour of the area, or Head to the mansion on the hill for dinner. All of this is "inside" the walls of the hotel, under a vast steel and glass roof. There are even fountain shows, and a rotating bar. Along the more traditional interior areas, there is an old world charm. You will come uppon huge lounge rooms with piano and fire place, ball rooms with floor to ceiling murals, and quite corners. There are also several restaurants, bars, and shops inside.

The Opryland is a first class hotel, though the rooms aren't worth the 250 per night they cost, stay somewhere else, but check it out. The restaurants inside are good too, especially the one which looks like a mansion on the hill. I have yet to see a hotel complex as large or interesting anywhere else, of course, I've not yet been to vegas either.

Winter is a great time to visit because it is tropical weather inside the glass to keep all the palm trees alive. It's also a wonderful time to visit, because the hotel puts on an impressive display of lights and decorations, as well as having activities such as the Ice! event (see an earlier blog) and the Rockettes.

This place is an A